Here is a list of tutorials and a link to each:
Here is the full pattern for the Wheelchair Quilt
Wheelchair quilt
Finished size 32 x 40 inches
Fabric needed
Color 1 = ½ yard
Color 2 = ½ yard
Border = ½ yard
Binding = 1/3 yard Border fabric, 1/3 yard contrasting color (color 1 or 2)
This is a great project to use up charm squares.
BEFORE YOU START
¨ Read all instructions through at least once before you start.
¨ If you decide to prewash fabric, press it before cutting. Do not starch fabric for appliqué. Prewashing is not required for this pattern.
¨ Seam allowances are included in all measurements
¨ All seam allowances are a scant 1/4 inch (see glossary below).
Glossary
Selvedge = The tightly woven edges of the fabric designed to keep it from unraveling.
WOF = Width of Fabric. Cutting across the WOF means that you will have a small bit of the selvedge on both short ends of the long strip.
Scant 1/4 inch = Distance between the seam or needle and the edge of the fabric is 1/4 inch minus the width of the thread. Test by sewing a 1/4 inch seam on a piece of scrap fabric and measuring with a reliable ruler.
Flange = A thin piece of fabric that adds dimension and a pop of color to the binding.
Cutting Instructions
Color 1: Cut (3) 5 x WOF. Sub cut (23) 5 inch squares.
Color 2: Cut (3) 5 x WOF. Sub cut (23) 5 inch squares.
Border: Cut (2) 2 ½ inch x WOF
Cut (2) 3 ½ inch x WOF
Binding: Border fabric: Cut (4) 1 3/8 inches x WOF
Contrasting fabric: Cut (4) 1 5/8 x WOF
Note: The instructions and yardage are for a four patch design, but you can use any simple block pattern and make 9 inch finished blocks. This would be a great time to play with disappearing four-patches. The instructions given are the easiest way to make a wheelchair quilt, although there is some waste.
Piecing
Make 9 four patch blocks with color 1 and color 2 alternating as shown below:
Assemble the quilt in four rows of three blocks each.
Add 3 ½ inch borders down the sides. Measure the quilt lengthwise through the middle. Cut each border that exact length. Mark center on border and quilt top and pin border to quilt top matching centers. Sew with
Add 2 ½ inch borders to top and bottom useing the same instructions as step 3, but widthwise.
Finishing
Layer backing (wrong side up), batting, and quilt top (right side up). Baste the layers together and quilt as desired.
Trim the quilt square.
Binding– Bind as desired. I like a flanged, two-color binding. The binding fabric (background fabric) will be the strip cut 1⅜″ wide, the flange fabric (Fabric E) will be the strip cut 1⅝″ wide.
Take the 1⅜″ strips and 1⅝″ strips. Cut off all the selvedge edges. Sew four 1⅜″ strips together end-to-end with a 45-degree angle. To do this, layer the right sides of the strips together at a 90-degree angle. Draw a 45-degree angle from lower right to upper left. Sew on the line. Cut extra fabric away to leave a ¼″ seam allowance. Press open. Repeat with all four of the 1⅝ ″ strips.
Then sew the 1⅝ ″ strips together in the same manner.
Sew the two strips together along the long edge.
Press seam allowance toward the background fabric (the 1⅜″ strip) and away from fabric E (the 1⅝″ strip). Now fold over with wrong sides together so the raw edges meet and press. About 1/8″ of fabric E will show above the background fabric on the right side of the binding. Only fabric E will be seen on the wrong side of the binding.
On the back of the quilt, lay the binding with raw edges matching the raw edge of the quilt and the flange side (Fabric E) up. Start on the long side, 3 inches above the bottom corner. Stitch binding to back with ¼″ seam.
At the first corner, stop stitching ¼″ before the corner (A) and stitch off the corner at a 45-degree angle (B). Then fold the binding down as shown (C). Starting at the edge, backstitch then continue with a ¼″ seam to the next corner. Finish two corners as described above.
Stop 3 inches above the third corner, which should be at the bottom of the quilt. Back stitch and cut off the binding. The edge does not need to be turned under because it will be cut off for the toe box.
Start again on the bottom edge 3 inches from the corner and attach binding up to 3 inches before the fourth corners.
Your top two corners will have mitered binding. The bottom two corners will have 3 inches on either side left unbound.
Press the binding out with seam pressed toward binding. Then press binding over to the front of the quilt. Pin corners with miters. Slowly stitch in the ditch of the flange all the way around the quilt using thread that matches the flange color.
Keep the remaining binding for the toe box
Forming the Toe Box
After you bind the quilt, cut a 6.5 inch square from each of the bottom two corners. That should cut off the border and one patch of each of the corner four-patches.
Put the right sides of the quilt together and sew the remaining raw edges to form a 90 degree angle. Sew from the center towards the edge of the quilt using a 1/2 inch seam. Reinforce the seams with zig zag stitching in the seam allowance or serging. The bottom of the quilt should be like two sides of a box.
Enclose the raw seams in additional binding. Make sure you turn the raw edges of the binding under before sewing.
©2021 This pattern is for personal use only and may be resized to fit your needs. Patterns or quilts made from the pattern may not be reproduced, copied or sold without written permission. Contact betterdonequilts@gmail.com for permission to teach this pattern. Use of this pattern to make quilts for donation is highly encouraged.
